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Three cooked chip / best chips

2008/10/30

I’ve never knowingly eaten a thrice cooked chip before, but at Quo Vadis (taken over by Sam and Eddie Hart of Fino and Barrafina fame) recently I had the pleasure of eating one. It was very good.

It was closer to a great fluffy roast potato, but not quite as heavy and in chip form and shape. Very crunchy on the outside, fluffy on the inside with a clean, crisp bite.

The waiter said it had been cooked three times. I believe the idea is that you:

1. boil the chip 2. fry at low temperature and then 3. fry at high temperature.

Heston Blumenthal gives a detailed recipe here.

I’m never going to get a deep fat fryer to do this, but the tricks I believe are:

  • When boiling the chip, don’t boil it too fiercely or the potato will break up.
  • Use groundnut oil (or rendered fat)
  • First fry at 130C/250F for 5 minutes. Then drain, then make it fridge cold. (things crisp better when fried from cold it seems – see tempura batter tricks).
  • Second fry at 180C/350F for 8 to 10 minutes or golden brown. Don’t rush it.

Let me know if you ever try it at home!

Update: Londoners, Timeout has a best chip special. I’ve only been to a few of the places, but I can recommend the current #1 as Comptoir Gascon. (link here; they also do a good take away duck confit) It’s a very different type of chip to the 3 cooked variety. Less crunchy, thinner, more hand cut, in some ways more filled with oil and less “clean” but therein lies its job, as it is cooked in duck fat and finished with fleur de sel which gives the finish a heartier, richer more complex taste. I like both types. I’d take Gascon’s with say, some fried duck eggs, or wild mushrooms but maybe take a three cooked one with a madeira finished pork chop (!)

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5 Comments leave one →
  1. 2008/10/30 2:17 pm

    Sometimes you just get a hankering for a good potato chip, with the light crispy saltiness of it all. I love them with vinegar too šŸ™‚

    Hope you have a good Thursday.

    Loving Annie

  2. bubble&squeak permalink
    2008/10/31 7:57 am

    Most chips are double fried. I just never knew they could be boiled beforehand – but it makes sense as you need the potatoes to be somewhat cooked inside and just work on bringing them to crunchiness with the frying. The second frying only works well I’ve found AFTER the chips are cooled. That’s probably why frozen chips (they are all pre-fried at a low temp to ‘seal’ chip) always tend to fry better than if you were to only fry a chip straight from a fresh potato once.
    I love chips – they are good with everything. I just wish they were actually good for me.

  3. benyeoh permalink*
    2008/10/31 4:49 pm

    Hi Loving Annie, thanks for your comment. I love crisps too. In the UK, crisp = US chip and UK chip = US French fry. So I’m talking about cooking thick cut French fries 3 times… but I wonder if crisps (US potato chips) also benefit…? B

  4. 2008/12/25 11:41 pm

    Chips/crisps—we love ’em all! Great post about a great snack.

Trackbacks

  1. Croque Gascon / review / Westfield « Foodie London

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